Inside an elegant early 20th-century house in Humaitá, Lasai has dazzled critics and foodies for its deliciously inventive cuisine. The carioca chef Rafa Costa e Silva earned his chops in some of the world’s best dining rooms (including Mugaritz in Spain), and he puts his skills to brilliant use here. Reservations essential.

There’s no set menu: dishes are based on whatever is fresh for the day (and some ingredients are grown in the chef’s own garden).